Golf has been played at Royal Dornoch for over 400 years dating back to 1616. The first holes here were designed by none other than Old Tom Morris back in 1877. The course is perched on the edge of the ocean known as Dornoch Firth locally. The course is wild as it meanders along the coast through the dunes, heather and gorse. Yet, at the same time the course is beautiful and even spellbinding. The day we played we were blessed with clear skies but a bit of a cool firm breeze. When mentioning the cooler breeze, the caddie master let me know that it was truly as good as it gets.
The first hole tee shot at Royal Dornoch can best be described as exhilarating. The first tee itself sits just outside the clubhouse. It’s also beside the putting green and has a small road in front of it that allows cars access down to the beachside area. The finishing 18th hole is just off to your right causing you to wonder how things went for those who are finishing up. Also, your mind can’t help but jump ahead wondering what you will have experienced when you make it to the 18th green. There is a growing excitement as you watch the starter meet groups and send them on their way.
The day we played, the first hole was into a wind that was crisp and really let you know it was there. It made a hole that plays just over 300 yards appear a bit more intimidating. There is plenty of room out there but the fairway itself seemed like a small green ribbon among a sea of tall grass and beyond that the dreaded gorse.
With our group’s first tee shot behind us, we all scattered off in different directions. We were on our way on what turned out to be both a bucket list golf course and also the greatest golf course I’ve ever played. There is something about Royal Dornoch that draws you to march forward wanting to see over that next dune or catch a glimpse of the challenge that lies ahead. Yet, at the same time you want it to slow down because you know that this is something special that won’t come again quickly enough.
Royal Dornoch is a course that you happily give your full attention. Each hole stands on its own but also fits in with the next to form a world class layout. Here are a few comments on just a few of the many memorable holes.
I think it was Tom Watson who called the second hole the toughest second shot in golf. What makes that statement so curious is that the second hole at Royal Dornoch is a par-3. The day we played, with wind, the hole was playing to about 190 yards long. The green itself is long but more noticeable is that it is strikingly narrow. It’s guarded in the front by deep bunkers on both sides. It’s just a tough green to hit. If you miss the green there is no easy second shot. If you avoid the bunkers and miss left, right or long, you will be faced with a delicate pitch up to a highly elevated green. Pitch short and the ball will be coming right back to your feet. Pitch long and you will roll off the green and you will have another tough pitch to an elevated green.
It’s an uphill walk to the third tee. At the tee, you are rewarded with your first top of the dunes view of the links and the ocean beyond. The day we were there, the gorse was covered with yellow flowers as it was in full bloom.
One tip for Royal Dornoch is to make sure to get a yardage book. In the yardage book, each hole has a short piece written by Rev. Susan Brown. The third hole is called Earl’s Cross. The Reverend writes the course opens up before you. Sea, hills, sweeping fairways. Pause to admire the natural beauty around you and appreciate what the Creator and humans can do together.
The par-4 seventh hole was re-situated several years back with an exact duplicate green created up higher on the dunes. This tee box provides another spot to take in the grand vistas. So much so, that our caddies said it was the best spot on the course if we were going to get a group picture. The hole itself played long as it was fully exposed to a strong wind right into us that day. One the card, it’s a 464 yard par-4. For me, it was a well hit driver, then a 3-wood, then a wedge from about 78 yards to reach the green.
Being a true links course, when you finish the par-4 ninth you make the turn back having a small snack shack for refreshments to provide the boost needed to take on the inward nine. The tenth hole named Fuaran played downwind. Fuaran means well or spring in Gaelic. There is a small stream of water just off the tenth tee that you might pass by without noticing due to the sweeping ocean views off your left. The bunkering around the tenth hole is certainly well pronounced but also seemed so natural. These bunkers are deep. Find yourself in one of them and bogey might be a good number.
The inward nine played easier due to the fact that our group enjoyed the wind at our back now. Number eleven was the second of only two par fives on the course. It was here I learned the lesson of just getting the ball back in play when in the wispy tall grass. My tee shot rolled through the fairway and had a decent lie in the tall wispy rough. With only 188 yards left into the green, I tried to hit six iron over a tall mound. The tall grass caught the club turning down the loft. The ball drove into the top of the hill. A chip out followed and a good links lesson was learned. That lesson being when in trouble just get back in play and don’t go for the glory shot.
Coming in, there are many great holes. Those include the signature hole named Foxy. It’s a 440 yard par-4 with an elevated and undulating green. The 15th is drivable at 300 yards, but will penalize an out of position second shot having a green with run-off mounding on all sides. When you get to the 17th tee, you know your journey is almost done. The seventeenth is one of two holes on the course that have blind tee shots. The hole is named Valley. Once you crest the hill and see where your tee shot ends up, you will understand the name. From there, it’s back up the hill to a green guarded by high grasses, mounds and deep bunkers that will grab shots not struck pure and long.
The eighteenth hole brings you back to where it all began just hours ago. It’s a strong finishing hole playing around 450 yards. Luckily for us, we were still blessed with the wind at our back. We were finishing later in the day. The daily bustle around the clubhouse was slowing. It was peaceful and satisfying. Our golf group was blessed to be greeted by the rest of our group who had been touring the charming town of Dornoch while we played. It was cheers and high fives all around. What a beautiful way to cap off a beautiful day and check a course off the main golf course on my bucket list.
